Hemp is increasingly being rediscovered by the textile industry due to its regional cultivability and positive cultivation conditions compared to other natural fibres such as cotton (e.g. in terms of water consumption, pesticide and fertiliser use). The aim of the HanfKnit research project is to improve the processing of hemp fibres into attractive, sustainable, natural apparel products with a regional production chain in Germany and to develop a functional, sustainable cardigan made from 100% hemp. This combines in the product positive physiological properties of hemp, such as good moisture and temperature management, with comfort of a knitted garment and a transparent local supply chain. A sustainable design and product concept focusing on mono-materials, waste-free production, recyclability and circularity was developed.

Yarn blends and different knitted fabric constructions of natural hemp and Lyohemp® (a regenerated fibre from plant waste > hemp straw) were produced to achieve different properties of the final textile product. The cardigan is produced waste-free using the fully-fashion or seamless 3D knitting process. A body mapping concept was developed according to the different physiological requirements of leisure, work and outdoor activities. Corresponding knitted fabric constructions were developed to match the identified functional zones and integrated into the areas of the cardigan in terms of 3D knitting technology. Due to its mono-materiality, the resulting prototype also fulfils the most important requirement for recycling at the end of the product's life and for the circular economy.

This project is funded as part of the European Union's response to the COVID-19 pandemic, REACT-EU project (EFRE-0802061).